renée’s travels, part four: edinburgh + glasgow, scotland
Three attempts later from when I originally wanted to visit Edinburgh, I finally made it there in early March and to be honest, it was perfect timing (plus perfect English weather aka chilly but with clear skies)! I took this trip during my Spring term’s “Reading Week” (see Around England post for context) and so I was able to plan a nice 4-day trip. I was going to leave late Friday after classes but my classes went remote that day so I switched to an early morning train and did my classes “on the go” but at least once they were done, I was already in Edinburgh! I kept hearing great things about the city and got a ton of recommendations so I had a really packed trip. But I enjoyed it so much and realized Glasgow was so close that I added an extra night/day and made a day trip to Glasgow as well - which turned out to be really lovely! The trip was filled with having great conversations with friendly Scottish folks, learning a lot of Scotland’s history and connections to the Caribbean, and accomplishing feats I never thought I could.
I have a ton of photos so I thought it best to recap the trip by day with the photos.
DAY ONE
Day 1 was the day I arrived into Scotland. Since I still had classes remote, I attended them while on the train (about 5 hours) and once I got to the hotel room (at an Ibis), but getting into Edinburgh earlier let me enjoy the evening there!
After classes, I went straight to RiveRLife Restaurant - a French Caribbean restaurant in Edinburgh (so you know I had to go). It was delicious and the folks were so welcoming.
I wrapped up the evening on a full stomach and got ready for the next few days that would be full of activities!
DAY TWO
Full day of exploring! I started out by checking out the national and local library - where I got to meet a recent LIS grad who was working there. Then I started out with a Black History Walking Tour by Lisa Williams aka the Edinburgh Caribbean Association. It was really informative and she actually mentioned both Garifuna and Haitian history - I never felt so represented in a tour before! Then I went to try the popular Haggis Box and omg, it’s actually really good! If my stomach could hold it, I would’ve gotten two but instead, I got some more haggis at other points in my trip. I then took a bus tour because I love doing those as a way to get a glimpse at all the major sites. I had a really impromptu but great conversation with some Scottish cashmere shop owners. Then I wrapped up my exploring by walking around Edinburgh more and catching the Edinburgh Castle at sunset. However, my night continued with getting dinner at a local diner (City Restaurant) and trying more haggis along with the popular deep-fried Mars bar.
DAY THREE
Whew, what a day! I started out really early so that I could attempt the Arthur’s Seat climb. A climb it was. There were so many times I didn’t know if I could actually make it to the top. I took a lot of breaks but looking back, I was so glad I did cause I got to enjoy the view at every point. But I made it! All the way to the top and although my legs felt like jelly and it was a slippery way down, I felt so accomplished. Now whenever I think I can’t do something or may be out of breath from a smaller climb, I’m reminded that I climbed Arthur’s Seat so I can do anything. Also, shouts to this site that had a lot of info that was really helpful to know before going. And shouts to the friendly folks I got to meet at the top!
After coming back down, I had a few hours before my next destination and I remembered the Dynamic Earth attraction nearby had a planetarium. It was technically for kids but I thought it’d be no better way to rest my body for a bit (and also clean off all the mud on my sneakers). That was enjoyable and then I headed to a screening of two films, Strike for Freedom: Frederick Douglass in Scotland and Scotland, Slavery, and Statues - both really informative looks into Scotland’s racial history. These were directed by Parisa Urquhart and there was a panel afterwards with Sir Geoff Palmer OBE, Cllr Graham Campbell, and Dr. Peggy Brunache (a fellow Haitian-American). I got to meet Dr. Peggy Brunache and Parisa Urquhart which was really heartwarming and similar to the story with the Hostile screening, I recommended submitting her Frederick Douglass film to RoxFilm - and it got accepted!
My day wasn’t over then though. I did some more walking around through parks and the University of Edinburgh campus. Then I took some time back at my hotel to change and get ready for my evening. I was so tired from the early morning climb but I couldn’t let that stop me from checking out this cool 30s style cinema, Dominion Cinema, and their First Class experience which is a comfy armchair recliner and food service to your seat before the film. I figured if I was going to watch a 3-hour Batman movie, I would watch it in the comfiest way. Plus the tickets weren’t more than £15! Surely a great way to end a long day.
DAY FOUR - GLASGOW
I have some general photos from Edinburgh from Day 4 but I figured I’d combine those with Day 5 since a majority of this day was spent in Glasgow. While on my trip I realized how close Glasgow was to Edinburgh and I figured while I was up here, I might as well check it out! I also found out the Glasgow Film Festival was happening as well so as expected, I found a screening to go to and planned my day trip around that.
I used the morning to check out a few sites in Edinburgh so I got into Glasgow around noon. I was immediately greeted by film crews, fake snow, and Christmas lights which apparently was the filming of Batgirl so I will definitely be looking for familiar scenes in that movie. I walked around the city a bit and made my way to the Botanic Gardens. I can never turn up some time in a greenhouse or near some plants, especially when it’s free so I got to have a really lovely time there. From there, I checked out Cottonrake Bakery which was recommended and although I didn’t have time to properly support the Caribbean/African restaurants there, I wanted to at least stop by this African shop, Solly’s African Village I passed by on the bus. I ended up staying in the shop for almost 30-45 minutes because I ended up having such a great conversation with the shopowner, Mustafa. We talked about his life, family, growing up in Glasgow, current events, my schooling, and much more. He affirmed me by saying that I would be a beacon of light wherever I go and wished me well on my journey. It was a really special memory.
After, I had done some more walking through Glasgow passing through Kelvingrove Park, checking out The Mitchell Library (such a cool space with so much in it!), stopping by Tantrum Doughnuts (another rec), and then making my way to the cinema for the screening of One Take Grace - which was a really moving story of a woman’s perseverance through traumatic events told by her. I had some extra time before my train so I stopped by Maki & Ramen to get a hearty bowl of ramen. A day truly well spent.
DAY FOUR AND FIVE
Before the trip came to a close, there were a few more stops to make! I spent the morning of Day 4 doing a speedy hop through some sites. I started early in the morning to Dean Village which is known for its historic, picturesque neighborhood. However, it’s still an active neighborhood so you have to be mindful of the residents but thankfully I caught it early enough where only people heading to work were around. I love seeing the water so this was a nice way to start the day. I then made my way back to the central part of Edinburgh to see bits of the Greyfriars Kirkyard to see the famous Greyfriars Bobby. Then I walked over to the National Museum of Scotland which really has sooo much but I only had about an hour or two so I got there right at opening time and did a brisk walk through all the parts of the museum. It was perfect timing as well because so many areas were empty and when I was heading out, it started getting busy. After that, I headed to my train to Glasgow.
The next and final day was short, but fulfilling. I had an AM train so I could get back to London before the evening so I mostly only used the morning to finish up in the hotel and head to the train. But I got to stop by The Piemaker and get a couple things including..a haggis roll! The ride back was smooth and absolutely beautiful. I almost wished I drove back just to be able to make stops to take in the views by the water, but I was still deeply satisfied with the train views. Before I knew it, I was back home in London!
This was truly a really wonderful and fulfilling trip. I did as much as possible and don’t regret a bit of it. I’m so grateful for all the lovely people I met. I would certainly visit again but I definitely want to get to the Highlands next!
Til next time, Scotland!
